It's now the last of the last days, and I'm in Bangkok waiting for a flight in about 6 hours which will take me back to London. Reading books and listening to Florence & The Machine on Youtube. In a way I've been waiting to come home for the past month - travelling is amazing, and I've loved the time I've spent here, but it's not so thought consuming as trying to forge a life for yourself elsewhere. I cannot wait to see my friends and family. I even missed the cats (especially Garfield Wannabe, but The Noisy One too - I expect that'll last all of about 30 seconds once I'm actually home). Looking forward to the next month of family, friends visiting, the Edinburgh festival and finally preparing to go to the US!
Monday, 27 July 2009
Friday, 24 July 2009
The sun has got his hat on....finally
Ahem. Forgot to mention that my last post title was an allusion to the very grey weather that has been hanging around Koh Tao for as long as I've been here, but no more! Just in time for my last scuba dive this morning there was a beautiful sunny day that makes a day on a boat absolutely gorgeous. Tomorrow morning I am heading back to Bangkok, where I will spend 24 hours trying desperately to make all of my stuff fit into my backpack for the plane (suspect will end up wearing several layers of clothing for the flight) then I am flying back to London - wooohooooo!!!
Wednesday, 22 July 2009
Sand, sea and...?
No news recently, as I've been having a marvellous time diving every day, and have also tried my hand at freediving, which is training to dive on one breath. You can get to around 20 metres with a bit of practice, and the really good guys can get to around 80.
Scuba is a dream - an underwater world that you float slowly through. Letting things capture your attention then drift away, interacting with a world that's not your own. Freediving is a little more intense, and takes it out of me both mentally and physically, but I'm glad I tried it. It's all about pushing a limit - breathing carefully, preparing yourself mentally then diving into the blue and feeling the water press down on you. Feeling like your breath won't last then pulling yourself deeper anyway. Realising that you can do it, and relaxing and enjoying the dive. Then the rush as you head to the surface and all the air in your lungs starts to expand, pushing you out of the water faster and faster until you shoot to the surface. I kind of like it. I think.
I'll be back in London in 6 days then home with my nearest and dearest in about 9 - I can't wait, it feels like it's been much longer than it has!
Scuba is a dream - an underwater world that you float slowly through. Letting things capture your attention then drift away, interacting with a world that's not your own. Freediving is a little more intense, and takes it out of me both mentally and physically, but I'm glad I tried it. It's all about pushing a limit - breathing carefully, preparing yourself mentally then diving into the blue and feeling the water press down on you. Feeling like your breath won't last then pulling yourself deeper anyway. Realising that you can do it, and relaxing and enjoying the dive. Then the rush as you head to the surface and all the air in your lungs starts to expand, pushing you out of the water faster and faster until you shoot to the surface. I kind of like it. I think.
I'll be back in London in 6 days then home with my nearest and dearest in about 9 - I can't wait, it feels like it's been much longer than it has!
Wednesday, 15 July 2009
I've been unable to upload photos for quite some time, but I got some scuba photos today as part of a course and have put them up here. A lot of them need to be cropped, but taking them was a lot of fun!
Monday, 13 July 2009
Under the sea
Yesterday I went out sea diving for the first time, and I'm officially hooked - despite roughish conditions (it's a bit stormy here) it was amazing! I'm so glad I have booked a long course to do here, and I've already decided that once it's over I'm going to stick around and take another course in freediving. The rest of Thailand will need to wait for another trip...
Friday, 10 July 2009
Take me to the beach...
Have come to an island on the Andaman Coast of Thailand to spend a week doing a PADI dive course - it's beautiful here, with lots of people, lots going on and of course beautiful beaches and reefs. Hurrah!! Over and out for the next while...
Wednesday, 8 July 2009
Thank you! And more buses
If only they had numbers, I'd be writing them down in a notebook. Honestly.
I'm on my way back to Thailand to check out the culture in the north and the beaches in the south! Which of these will succeed in winning the most of my precious time remains to be seen, but I (and many of my nearest and dearest) are well capable of making educated guesses. On the way I've stopped back at Siam Reap for the night, where I can have a nice evening in a pretty place with lovely people and delicious food, rather than the evening I would have if I stayed in a town on the border (horrible food, ugly town and sleeping in a sitting position adopted to keep the furniture propped up against the door).
I'm excited to be on the road again however I'm also more sad than is reasonable about leaving Phnom Pehn, a city I've spent a grand total of 3 days in. They were a fun 3 days though, and I felt extremely at home and comfortable there. I don't know if this is due to the city itself or to my friends who made me so welcome there and took such good care of me, but I did have an awesome time - if I didn't have other extremely exciting plans lined up for the next 6 months I would be sticking around here for quite a bit longer! Whatever it was I owe a huuuge thanks to my friends on the rapidly growing Cambodia team for showing me around - it was so nice to catch up with everyone! Keep doing what you're doing, going from strength to strength, demonstrating your incredible commitment and integrity and showing everyone how it should be done - you guys are doing an amazing job.
Besos!!
Ps. for anyone who does have 6 months to spend in an awesome place the expansion initiative of AIESEC to Cambodia currently have some amaaaaaazing internships available
I'm on my way back to Thailand to check out the culture in the north and the beaches in the south! Which of these will succeed in winning the most of my precious time remains to be seen, but I (and many of my nearest and dearest) are well capable of making educated guesses. On the way I've stopped back at Siam Reap for the night, where I can have a nice evening in a pretty place with lovely people and delicious food, rather than the evening I would have if I stayed in a town on the border (horrible food, ugly town and sleeping in a sitting position adopted to keep the furniture propped up against the door).
I'm excited to be on the road again however I'm also more sad than is reasonable about leaving Phnom Pehn, a city I've spent a grand total of 3 days in. They were a fun 3 days though, and I felt extremely at home and comfortable there. I don't know if this is due to the city itself or to my friends who made me so welcome there and took such good care of me, but I did have an awesome time - if I didn't have other extremely exciting plans lined up for the next 6 months I would be sticking around here for quite a bit longer! Whatever it was I owe a huuuge thanks to my friends on the rapidly growing Cambodia team for showing me around - it was so nice to catch up with everyone! Keep doing what you're doing, going from strength to strength, demonstrating your incredible commitment and integrity and showing everyone how it should be done - you guys are doing an amazing job.
Besos!!
Ps. for anyone who does have 6 months to spend in an awesome place the expansion initiative of AIESEC to Cambodia currently have some amaaaaaazing internships available
Monday, 6 July 2009
Yesterday was spent at Toul Sleng, or the S-21 prison and the Choeung Ek Killing Fields. Naturally pretty heavy stuff. Somehow even being right where it happened, seeing the photographs of the victims and the blood-stains that have been left on the cell floors, it's still difficult to believe that humans can do that kind of thing to each other. Or maybe not difficult to believe - just impossible to understand.
Saturday, 4 July 2009
Phnom Pehn
I'm honestly starting to think that no matter how uncomfortable it has the potential to be, I will never be able to give up bus travel in other countries - weird, I know, but I'm an addict. I think it's because it lets me see so much life that I'd otherwise miss out on. Of course, if you can give me an air-conditioned bus with a reclining seat then so much the better, but still; on this trip it's let me see so much that I strongly suspect it will be a permanent feature in any future travel plans. Roadtrip!
I'm currently in the Pearl of Asia, Phnom Pehn and during my six hours on the bus here I saw tiny villages and bigger cities, old men getting around on oxcarts, and whole families getting around on one motorbike (bringing back fond memories of India!). I noticed that all of the rural houses in Cambodia are built on stilts, saw little children running after bicycles, and families getting on with their daily work and trying to escape the heat.
The city here is more developed than I thought it would be, with some impressive old monuments and beautifully aged old French-style buildings all over the place. There are people all over the public parks playing badminton and volleyball, cooking food on the streets and spending time en familie - the rain has quelled the heat, making everyone spill onto the streets to enjoy the gray skies! Tomorrow is likely to be a very heavy day, as we're going to the Genocide museum and the Killing Fields, however for tonight I have a load of friends from London living here so I'm off to enjoy a long dinner and night out!
I'm currently in the Pearl of Asia, Phnom Pehn and during my six hours on the bus here I saw tiny villages and bigger cities, old men getting around on oxcarts, and whole families getting around on one motorbike (bringing back fond memories of India!). I noticed that all of the rural houses in Cambodia are built on stilts, saw little children running after bicycles, and families getting on with their daily work and trying to escape the heat.
The city here is more developed than I thought it would be, with some impressive old monuments and beautifully aged old French-style buildings all over the place. There are people all over the public parks playing badminton and volleyball, cooking food on the streets and spending time en familie - the rain has quelled the heat, making everyone spill onto the streets to enjoy the gray skies! Tomorrow is likely to be a very heavy day, as we're going to the Genocide museum and the Killing Fields, however for tonight I have a load of friends from London living here so I'm off to enjoy a long dinner and night out!
Friday, 3 July 2009
Indiana Jen
Today was spent at Angkor Wat, an enormous temple complex once home to SE Asia's largest ancient civilisation, and Cambodia's most famous landmark.
I went expecting a very touristy experience, however despite large numbers of tourists the place didn't have that sort of atmosphere at all. Instead, I found a lush, green paradise with beautiful old temples that had fallen to ruin and been reclaimed by a jungle - it felt like I'd fallen into a set from an old Indiana Jones film. The tourist set up there is pretty slick, and the sites are well run and taken care of, however this is done in a very unobtrusive way. You're free to wander around the old ruins, listening to crickets hissing and watching butterflies floating by, making the whole place extremely peaceful and relaxing despite the numbers of people.
The thing I liked about it the most was that the preservation attempts seem to be keeping the buildings intact, without ignoring the past few centuries when the jungle has moved in! I'm sure in most instances it would create more damage trying to untangle the forest from the buildings than just letting it be, but it creates an amazing other-worldly atmosphere. There are ancient, imposing old stones and carvings with huge tree roots tangled all over them, wild grass and parts of old walls and statues littered around, with lush canopy overhead and the sounds of the forest buzzing all around. Most people tend to wander around in a bit of a daze; it feels like walking around a huge fairy's grotto.
One of the most impressive things I've ever seen - the dodgy border crossing was well worth it! One day one of the 400 (no joke) photos I took should make it up here.
I went expecting a very touristy experience, however despite large numbers of tourists the place didn't have that sort of atmosphere at all. Instead, I found a lush, green paradise with beautiful old temples that had fallen to ruin and been reclaimed by a jungle - it felt like I'd fallen into a set from an old Indiana Jones film. The tourist set up there is pretty slick, and the sites are well run and taken care of, however this is done in a very unobtrusive way. You're free to wander around the old ruins, listening to crickets hissing and watching butterflies floating by, making the whole place extremely peaceful and relaxing despite the numbers of people.
The thing I liked about it the most was that the preservation attempts seem to be keeping the buildings intact, without ignoring the past few centuries when the jungle has moved in! I'm sure in most instances it would create more damage trying to untangle the forest from the buildings than just letting it be, but it creates an amazing other-worldly atmosphere. There are ancient, imposing old stones and carvings with huge tree roots tangled all over them, wild grass and parts of old walls and statues littered around, with lush canopy overhead and the sounds of the forest buzzing all around. Most people tend to wander around in a bit of a daze; it feels like walking around a huge fairy's grotto.
One of the most impressive things I've ever seen - the dodgy border crossing was well worth it! One day one of the 400 (no joke) photos I took should make it up here.
Thursday, 2 July 2009
Minibuses and Border Rackets
I've just arrived in Siam Reap, Cambodia after a brief 1-and-a-half days in Bangkok. It's late at night but the city seems to be very tourist friendly, a little rainy and muddy and with lots of nice places to eat! The place I'm staying in is very calm and relaxed which is good, as the journey was a little eventful!
I was met at 7am this morning by a nice, airconditioned minivan. As I sat back, watching the countryside speed by from my fresh, cool haven I silently congratulated myself on choosing such a pleasant transport method. No boring airports or delayed planes, but more comfortable than a local bus, this won't be a bad way to travel to Siam Reap at all, no problems! I've got this travelling lark sorted. Big mistake.
Around 4 hours in, the van pulls over, and we are met by a company representative offering visa services - visa services meaning trotting up to the border for you to get your visa, then trotting back with it, while you kick back and eat in their restaurant. No no, not this time thank you! Having been told his services are not required our host promptly abandons us, leaving me and 5 others to walk up to the border solo.
Getting through the Thai customs is easy and comfortable - so far, we're still congratulating ourselves on avoiding the sneaky visa touting service. On the other side of Thai customs, the point at which we need to start getting our visa we discover that sneaky visa touting service is sneakier and more determined than we had previously realised. Our guide shows up again, ushers us through a health check channel where a themometer is shoved in my ear and I am handed a yellow slip of paper assuring me that I don't have swine flu (always a comfort).
At this point our guide asks where we want to go - visa service, or visa on arrival? VISA ON ARRIVAL of course!... Except that after 5 minutes of filling out forms in front of a police officer, said police officer instructs us to give him 1,300 baht (the official visa cost is 700). Suspicion aroused we start looking for the office, only to discover that our guide has "mistakenly"directed us to the wrong office...hmmm. Mr Police Officer, who obviously didn't read the handbook on serving the public interest, offers us a discount on his services. In return, somebody steals his pen. A small victory for tourists all over the world, I feel.
We set off determinedly and find the right office back down the road. Here there is a sign telling us the right cost ($20 or 700 baht). Definitely more promising than before, but a grave looking police officer tells us we must pay $25 or 1000 baht. After pointing to the sign and refusing, I am asked to stand and wait* (read - *stew) whilst the efficient and professional border officials have a cup of tea. Not being in the habit of bartering for my visas this is slightly unnerving, as is arguing with border officials - something which defies every ounce of reason and logic I have. However, 5 minutes later the official slides open the window and tells me, that just this once he will do my visa for $20 with 100 baht on the side. He leaves me to mull this over, and then a few minutes later slides open the window again. By this time I'm ready for him, and have hit upon what is now my new magic phrase. Sure! I'm happy to pay the extra (x) baht. If you give me a receipt. The window bangs shut, only to slide open again. "OK, OK visa $20 - just don't tell you friends, OK?!"
Feeling flush with victory, we all head over the border, only to find that our minivan and driver have disappeared. Luckily it's possible to call someone who should be with him, and we all convene at a meeting point a few minutes later. Said driver and minivan are nowhere to be found. After an hour of waiting we begin to feel that said driver may have done a runner in the minivan. Half an hour later driver shows up, sans minivan and starts sheparding a lot of people towards a rickety old bus - this was not the kind of bus they show you in the tourist office. This was the kind of bus you usually see in articles about 3rd world poverty, with chicken crates strapped to the top. Yes, it's official ladies and gentlemen - we have been had. A further 5 hours in the new bus (sweaty, sleepy hours, with pretty countryside whizzing past outside) and we are dropped into a veritable pit of tuk tuk drivers waiting to take us to our respective hotels. I've just checked into mine, and am heading for some Khmer food now - tomorrow Angkor Wat!
I was met at 7am this morning by a nice, airconditioned minivan. As I sat back, watching the countryside speed by from my fresh, cool haven I silently congratulated myself on choosing such a pleasant transport method. No boring airports or delayed planes, but more comfortable than a local bus, this won't be a bad way to travel to Siam Reap at all, no problems! I've got this travelling lark sorted. Big mistake.
Around 4 hours in, the van pulls over, and we are met by a company representative offering visa services - visa services meaning trotting up to the border for you to get your visa, then trotting back with it, while you kick back and eat in their restaurant. No no, not this time thank you! Having been told his services are not required our host promptly abandons us, leaving me and 5 others to walk up to the border solo.
Getting through the Thai customs is easy and comfortable - so far, we're still congratulating ourselves on avoiding the sneaky visa touting service. On the other side of Thai customs, the point at which we need to start getting our visa we discover that sneaky visa touting service is sneakier and more determined than we had previously realised. Our guide shows up again, ushers us through a health check channel where a themometer is shoved in my ear and I am handed a yellow slip of paper assuring me that I don't have swine flu (always a comfort).
At this point our guide asks where we want to go - visa service, or visa on arrival? VISA ON ARRIVAL of course!... Except that after 5 minutes of filling out forms in front of a police officer, said police officer instructs us to give him 1,300 baht (the official visa cost is 700). Suspicion aroused we start looking for the office, only to discover that our guide has "mistakenly"directed us to the wrong office...hmmm. Mr Police Officer, who obviously didn't read the handbook on serving the public interest, offers us a discount on his services. In return, somebody steals his pen. A small victory for tourists all over the world, I feel.
We set off determinedly and find the right office back down the road. Here there is a sign telling us the right cost ($20 or 700 baht). Definitely more promising than before, but a grave looking police officer tells us we must pay $25 or 1000 baht. After pointing to the sign and refusing, I am asked to stand and wait* (read - *stew) whilst the efficient and professional border officials have a cup of tea. Not being in the habit of bartering for my visas this is slightly unnerving, as is arguing with border officials - something which defies every ounce of reason and logic I have. However, 5 minutes later the official slides open the window and tells me, that just this once he will do my visa for $20 with 100 baht on the side. He leaves me to mull this over, and then a few minutes later slides open the window again. By this time I'm ready for him, and have hit upon what is now my new magic phrase. Sure! I'm happy to pay the extra (x) baht. If you give me a receipt. The window bangs shut, only to slide open again. "OK, OK visa $20 - just don't tell you friends, OK?!"
Feeling flush with victory, we all head over the border, only to find that our minivan and driver have disappeared. Luckily it's possible to call someone who should be with him, and we all convene at a meeting point a few minutes later. Said driver and minivan are nowhere to be found. After an hour of waiting we begin to feel that said driver may have done a runner in the minivan. Half an hour later driver shows up, sans minivan and starts sheparding a lot of people towards a rickety old bus - this was not the kind of bus they show you in the tourist office. This was the kind of bus you usually see in articles about 3rd world poverty, with chicken crates strapped to the top. Yes, it's official ladies and gentlemen - we have been had. A further 5 hours in the new bus (sweaty, sleepy hours, with pretty countryside whizzing past outside) and we are dropped into a veritable pit of tuk tuk drivers waiting to take us to our respective hotels. I've just checked into mine, and am heading for some Khmer food now - tomorrow Angkor Wat!
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