I've just arrived in Siam Reap, Cambodia after a brief 1-and-a-half days in Bangkok. It's late at night but the city seems to be very tourist friendly, a little rainy and muddy and with lots of nice places to eat! The place I'm staying in is very calm and relaxed which is good, as the journey was a little eventful!
I was met at 7am this morning by a nice, airconditioned minivan. As I sat back, watching the countryside speed by from my fresh, cool haven I silently congratulated myself on choosing such a pleasant transport method. No boring airports or delayed planes, but more comfortable than a local bus, this won't be a bad way to travel to Siam Reap at all, no problems! I've got this travelling lark sorted. Big mistake.
Around 4 hours in, the van pulls over, and we are met by a company representative offering visa services - visa services meaning trotting up to the border for you to get your visa, then trotting back with it, while you kick back and eat in their restaurant. No no, not this time thank you! Having been told his services are not required our host promptly abandons us, leaving me and 5 others to walk up to the border solo.
Getting through the Thai customs is easy and comfortable - so far, we're still congratulating ourselves on avoiding the sneaky visa touting service. On the other side of Thai customs, the point at which we need to start getting our visa we discover that sneaky visa touting service is sneakier and more determined than we had previously realised. Our guide shows up again, ushers us through a health check channel where a themometer is shoved in my ear and I am handed a yellow slip of paper assuring me that I don't have swine flu (always a comfort).
At this point our guide asks where we want to go - visa service, or visa on arrival? VISA ON ARRIVAL of course!... Except that after 5 minutes of filling out forms in front of a police officer, said police officer instructs us to give him 1,300 baht (the official visa cost is 700). Suspicion aroused we start looking for the office, only to discover that our guide has "mistakenly"directed us to the wrong office...hmmm. Mr Police Officer, who obviously didn't read the handbook on serving the public interest, offers us a discount on his services. In return, somebody steals his pen. A small victory for tourists all over the world, I feel.
We set off determinedly and find the right office back down the road. Here there is a sign telling us the right cost ($20 or 700 baht). Definitely more promising than before, but a grave looking police officer tells us we must pay $25 or 1000 baht. After pointing to the sign and refusing, I am asked to stand and wait* (read - *stew) whilst the efficient and professional border officials have a cup of tea. Not being in the habit of bartering for my visas this is slightly unnerving, as is arguing with border officials - something which defies every ounce of reason and logic I have. However, 5 minutes later the official slides open the window and tells me, that just this once he will do my visa for $20 with 100 baht on the side. He leaves me to mull this over, and then a few minutes later slides open the window again. By this time I'm ready for him, and have hit upon what is now my new magic phrase. Sure! I'm happy to pay the extra (x) baht. If you give me a receipt. The window bangs shut, only to slide open again. "OK, OK visa $20 - just don't tell you friends, OK?!"
Feeling flush with victory, we all head over the border, only to find that our minivan and driver have disappeared. Luckily it's possible to call someone who should be with him, and we all convene at a meeting point a few minutes later. Said driver and minivan are nowhere to be found. After an hour of waiting we begin to feel that said driver may have done a runner in the minivan. Half an hour later driver shows up, sans minivan and starts sheparding a lot of people towards a rickety old bus - this was not the kind of bus they show you in the tourist office. This was the kind of bus you usually see in articles about 3rd world poverty, with chicken crates strapped to the top. Yes, it's official ladies and gentlemen - we have been had. A further 5 hours in the new bus (sweaty, sleepy hours, with pretty countryside whizzing past outside) and we are dropped into a veritable pit of tuk tuk drivers waiting to take us to our respective hotels. I've just checked into mine, and am heading for some Khmer food now - tomorrow Angkor Wat!
I was met at 7am this morning by a nice, airconditioned minivan. As I sat back, watching the countryside speed by from my fresh, cool haven I silently congratulated myself on choosing such a pleasant transport method. No boring airports or delayed planes, but more comfortable than a local bus, this won't be a bad way to travel to Siam Reap at all, no problems! I've got this travelling lark sorted. Big mistake.
Around 4 hours in, the van pulls over, and we are met by a company representative offering visa services - visa services meaning trotting up to the border for you to get your visa, then trotting back with it, while you kick back and eat in their restaurant. No no, not this time thank you! Having been told his services are not required our host promptly abandons us, leaving me and 5 others to walk up to the border solo.
Getting through the Thai customs is easy and comfortable - so far, we're still congratulating ourselves on avoiding the sneaky visa touting service. On the other side of Thai customs, the point at which we need to start getting our visa we discover that sneaky visa touting service is sneakier and more determined than we had previously realised. Our guide shows up again, ushers us through a health check channel where a themometer is shoved in my ear and I am handed a yellow slip of paper assuring me that I don't have swine flu (always a comfort).
At this point our guide asks where we want to go - visa service, or visa on arrival? VISA ON ARRIVAL of course!... Except that after 5 minutes of filling out forms in front of a police officer, said police officer instructs us to give him 1,300 baht (the official visa cost is 700). Suspicion aroused we start looking for the office, only to discover that our guide has "mistakenly"directed us to the wrong office...hmmm. Mr Police Officer, who obviously didn't read the handbook on serving the public interest, offers us a discount on his services. In return, somebody steals his pen. A small victory for tourists all over the world, I feel.
We set off determinedly and find the right office back down the road. Here there is a sign telling us the right cost ($20 or 700 baht). Definitely more promising than before, but a grave looking police officer tells us we must pay $25 or 1000 baht. After pointing to the sign and refusing, I am asked to stand and wait* (read - *stew) whilst the efficient and professional border officials have a cup of tea. Not being in the habit of bartering for my visas this is slightly unnerving, as is arguing with border officials - something which defies every ounce of reason and logic I have. However, 5 minutes later the official slides open the window and tells me, that just this once he will do my visa for $20 with 100 baht on the side. He leaves me to mull this over, and then a few minutes later slides open the window again. By this time I'm ready for him, and have hit upon what is now my new magic phrase. Sure! I'm happy to pay the extra (x) baht. If you give me a receipt. The window bangs shut, only to slide open again. "OK, OK visa $20 - just don't tell you friends, OK?!"
Feeling flush with victory, we all head over the border, only to find that our minivan and driver have disappeared. Luckily it's possible to call someone who should be with him, and we all convene at a meeting point a few minutes later. Said driver and minivan are nowhere to be found. After an hour of waiting we begin to feel that said driver may have done a runner in the minivan. Half an hour later driver shows up, sans minivan and starts sheparding a lot of people towards a rickety old bus - this was not the kind of bus they show you in the tourist office. This was the kind of bus you usually see in articles about 3rd world poverty, with chicken crates strapped to the top. Yes, it's official ladies and gentlemen - we have been had. A further 5 hours in the new bus (sweaty, sleepy hours, with pretty countryside whizzing past outside) and we are dropped into a veritable pit of tuk tuk drivers waiting to take us to our respective hotels. I've just checked into mine, and am heading for some Khmer food now - tomorrow Angkor Wat!
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